Here it is from below, very important, make sure you put the end stop up against the end of the work piece.Ĭlamp the rail and the work down, now remove the side stops, they will get in the way of drilling the holes. You are on the right track if it looks like this. Note TOP on the work, this the top of the side piece of the cabinet. We will line up the rail/end stop to the top of the cabinet (on the left in the picture below) Put the whole thing on the work piece. Mount the side stops to the rail to set the distance from edge to your first row of holes. Sorry no picture of this, don't worry it is very east to do. Side stops go on now, 37mm from the edge of cabinet is the standard for most hinges, so that is what I will set the side stops to. Note, end stop to the first hole is 16mm, and the you can see the "16" on the end stop. You are looking at the bottom of the guide rail. We will drill the shelf pins in the cabinet first, so we will set the end stops to the 16mm offset. The end stops can be set to have either a 16mm or 32mm offset from the edge of the work piece to center of first hole in the rail (remember this). Alright, now we fit the end stops to the guide rail. This is the only thing that is easy to understand in the manual, so I won't cover it here. Next is to adjust the side stops with the router, you only need to do this the first time you use the LR32. Note, centering mandreal and thumb screws to mount 1010 off to the side(take a close look, left of center, you can see the pin that drops into the holes in the rail.)īase with OF1010 mounted, use centering mandreal and thumb screws. Just screw the guide to the base of the 1400, screwdriver is in one of the two screws. I don't have the OF1010 (yet), so pictured is the OF1400. The first thing that needs to be done is to mount the guide plate to the router. The settings you will need may be different. In this tutorial I will be making a sample of a frameless, full overlay cabinet, the settings I use here are for my particular hinge. PS: If you know any of this info to be incorrect, please let me know, thanks. OK now that we know what the parts look like, we can get started on the how-to for the standard use of the LR32! Guide plate, centering mandrel, mounting screws for OF1400. Here are some pictures of the parts to the LR32 system. The parts in bold that are not included in the kits are necessary for standard use of LR32. Router, drill bits, rail(s) and clamps not included. ~ Part # 583290, Hole Drilling System for OF 1010/1400 Routers: Guide plate with centering mandrel and two side stops, two end stops. ~ Part # 58329, Festool LR 32-SYS Hole Boring System For OF 1010 & 1400: Includes: Guide Plate, Centering mandrel, 2 side stops, 2 end stops, 2 clamps, 35mm carbide-tipped hinge-location bit, two 5mm carbide-tipped dowel drills in #1 Systainer. ![]() As others have posted on this site, you don't have to buy the entire kit, you can just buy the parts you want. I have tried poplar, cherry, pine, oak and birch ply with no problems. I have had success with this bit, I use the router on speed setting #1, the slowest setting. ![]() Next, some have said that the Festool 35mm bit will not cut into wood, stating the router spins the bit too fast and only burns the wood. In a couple of recent threads there has been some confusion about the LR32 hole drilling jig, this thread will address some of the questions that seem to keep popping up here and around the net.įirst the LR32 will fit the OF1010 and the OF1400, I don't know for sure, but I assume the 1000 will fit also.
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